Aldeby Wines Blog

Nigel Slater's Simple Suppers, Series 2 - 3. Spice Up Your Life

Ian Webb — Wed, 24 Nov 2010 16:22:36 GMT

Subtle and not super hot spice - that is just the way I like it, gone are the days when I automatically ordered the hottest thing on the Indian restaurant menu. Here are some wine suggestions for this programme's dishes.

A. Mustard and Lemon Sausages

The combination of mustard, lemon, carrots and decent quality sausages sounds great. To me it demands a glass of something interesting, and that something needs plenty of controlled power and a bit of development to match the meatiness of the sausage. I would go for a Cotes du Rhone, or better still one of the Southern Rhone village wines, like Gigondas, Rasteau or Cairanne, but it needs to be a few years old. This means I would look for a wine from 2004 or 2005 (or older) but only from a better known producer. A decent Aussie Shiraz would also be good, but one from a small producer rather than one of the mega-corporations, somewhere like Coriole might be good - but rmemeber look for some age! From the Languedoc, I would go for a wine with a high Syrah content, like the Plan de l'Om Roucan 2005, or the Domaine Jordy Tentation 2007. The Roucan might be expensive for a mid-week night, but it is something worth drinking between two over a really lovely supper like this.

B. Thai Spiced Aubergine

A combination of spice and my favourite vegtable can only mean one thing Grenache! How do I know, well last night friends cooked us an authentic Thai Green Curry that was full of lemongrass, chilli, garlic, lme, and coconut milk - a bottle of Domaine de l'Arfeuille Old Vines Grenache 2007 was perfect. Bright red berry and currant fruit, sweet spice and soft tannins with a good balance and length. A perfect combination.

C. Chilli Feta

Cheese, chilli, lime, onion and herbs in a rough sandwich - sounds good. A glass of something to cope with the fat in the cheese and the hotish spice is needed here. I am going to be a little controversial here as I am going to avoid red wines and go for a white. I think that a white based on Marsanne, Roussanne or Clairette will work very well with the feta. So Languedoc is the place to go. Try an old vines Roussanne from the "La Gravette" cooperative in Corconne, or the Roussanne from Domaine la Fadeze, or the big best picpoul of them all: Chateau Saint Martin de la Garrigue Picpoul 2009.

D. Tomato, Squash and Chard Soup

A dish like this, particularly if eaten outside needs a good rose, and Languedoc is the worrld's most important rose producing region. I would go for the Mas d'Exindre Rose 2009, which is full of strawberry and raspberry fruit, with a nice streak of sweet spice, good balance and length.

E. Spiced Jelly

Grown up jelly - yes please - and no I wouldn't drink wine with this. If I was desperate for alcohol I would go for an ice cold vodka!

F. Mushroom Korma

With the lovely spices, mushrooms, nuts, fruit, spinach and creamy sauce I would want to go for a good fruity red wine, probably from the New World. My first thought would be an Aussie Shiraz, say from Western Australia, or perhaps from Plantagenet, or a big Zinfandell from California. But perhaps best of all might be a Carmenere from Chilie, the one I wouyld choose would be the Montes Reserve Carmenere which is packed full of bright berry, cherry and currant fruit flavours, with a touch of spice and good lenght and a nice balance. my only other advice here would be to only pay £7-10 a bottle for a wine to accompany this meal any more might distract you from putting the world to rights with some close frinds!

Nigel Slater's Simple Suppers, Series 2 - 2. Making Things Go Further

Ian Webb — Tue, 16 Nov 2010 14:06:07 GMT

I really enjoyed the second installment of Nigel Slater's Simple Suppers (Series 2), I love the idea of just going to the store cupboard/fridge and using bits and pieces to make an interesting meal. Of course I will normally drink a glass of wine with my dinner, and here are my suggestions for suitable wines for these dishes.

A. Lamb, Beetroot and Bulgar Wheat Patties

I often make patties, or rissoles as they are called in our house, from left over roast lamb or fresh lamb mince. I love to add spice, particularly ground cumin and coriander, as well as a sneaky bit of chilli and plenty of coriander leaf, and I always bulk up the meat with breadcrumbs. I must try bulgar wheat next time. For this type of food, I think you need to drink a robust red wine, I think that you will need plenty of dark berry fruit flavours, some spice and nice round tannins. A good Languedoc red would be perfect, either a traditional AOC type blend like a Coteaux du Languedoc, or a modern blend. From my list I would go for either Domaine Jordy Tentation 2008, which is a Syrah dominant blend with Grenache and Carignan if I was going for tradition, or the Cabernet Syrah blend of the Petit Saint Aunes Rouge 2008.

B. Pea Pasta with Parmesan

Fresh and simple this will have a surprisingly complex set of flavours, particularly as the pea shoots and a few herbs are used to add interest, texture and more flavours. I can't see beyond a white wine for this dish, either a good dry aromatic white from Alsace, say a good Pinot Gris, or from Languedoc the Chateau Saint Martin de la Garrigue, Bronzinelle Blanc would be brilliant, as it has a lovely freshness and plenty of complex flavours with much floral and fruit character, but also a lovely touch of herbacious aromas and flavours.

C. Chorizo and Bean Stew

This dish will pack a punch interms of flavour, the veg, beans and the spicy chorizo will make for a really hearty dish. For me it would be a real winter treat. To cope witht he spice and big flavours I think that you will need to go for something equally powerful in the accompanying wine. Try a Tempranillo based red from Spain (try Navarra, or Castille y Leon rather than Rioja) or a big punchy Grenache based blend fro South Australia or Languedoc, a good example on my list would be the Domaine des 1000 Roses Cuvee Lea, which has much power, but plenty of complex fruit and spice and just a touch of elegance if you look hard enough!

D. Beetroot Friters

I think the idea of knocking up a bowl of beetroot fritters on a camping stove in the allotment is a great idea, you just need a glass of outdoor red to go with them! I would go for something with plenty of fruit , and a touch of spice, but nothing too complex. Try a Montepulciano d'Abruzzo or a decent Valpolicella, or from Languedoc the Mas d'Exindre Rouge 2007 - the blend of Syrah, Grenache, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot covers all the bases and has enough about it to be great by the glass at lunchtime. It has the added advantage of being sufficiently robust that a bottle will happliy drink over two or three days with no undue degradation.

E. Summer Fruit patch Pudding

This medley of summer fruits, cake soaked with lemon liqueur and whipped cream looks delightful and very naughty. And to be honest I wouldn't even try to match a wine to this dish, why bother,personally I wouldn't want anything to distract from the fruit, particularly if there are any white currants!

F. Salmon and Watercress Tart

Interestingly Last night I led a tasting for a lovely group, and halfway through we stopped for a snack, and one of the things on offer was a slice of a "Salmon Quiche", which looked very like the one proposed by Nigel Slater. We had just finished tasting a rose and three whites, the Ermitage du Pic Saint Loup Classique Rose went very well with the Quiche, the weight of fruit and freshness working well with the egg mixture and salmon; an oaked Chardonnay didn't work - the oak clashed with the fish; La Fadeze Sauvignon Blanc worked well with the freshenss and plentiful fruit again workig well with all elements of the tart; but the best match (in my opinion and about half of the tasters) was the Chateau Saint Martin de la Garrigue, Bronzinelle Blanc. I don't like to recommend the same wine twice in one blog, but in this case the freshness, fruit and herbacious character of the wine, together with its weight all worked perfectly with the salmon, egg mixture and the pastry.

I hope that these blogs are of interest, leave me a comment and tell me what you might match to some of these recipes.

Nigel Slater's Simple Suppers, Series 2 - 1. New Tricks

Ian Webb — Wed, 10 Nov 2010 13:35:53 GMT

A few suggestions for things to drink with the dishes cooked on Nigel Slater's new series on the BBC.

A. Squash and Turkey Bake

This looks full of flavour, with the sweetness of the squash and the deep savoury flavours from the mushrooms, onions and turkey mince. It definately needs a good red wine, and I think one with a fruit driven style. The sweetness of the squash makes me think of a Grenache based wine, one where the yields are low and the winemaker has worked with a gentle hand. An ideal place to find a wine like this would be the Terrasses du Larzac, particularly "Miejour" from Plan de l'Om, or the "Les Terrasses" from Domaine de la Croix Chaptal. Both have lovely well defined fruit flavours, with red berry fruit to the fore, with sweet spice and a lovely touch of dried herbs in the "Les Terrasses" and more complex fruit and spice in the "Miejour".

B. Pasta Pesto

Pesto based on basil, parmesan and olive oil needs a wine that has sufficient acidity to not be overwhelmed and tannins that do not become astringent against the big complex flavours of the sauce. It is a classic Italian dish, and I would go for a classic Italian wine. The best is probably a good Chianti, or other Sangiovese based wine.

C. Broad Bean, Chilli and Red Onion Bruschetta

This looks to be a lovely lunch dish (I'll try it when the braod beans are ready next June!). It is a dish that will be great with a lighter red wine, or a fuller bodied dry white. If I went for a red wine it would need to be a nice ripe Pinot Noir, say the Ata Rangi Pinot from New Zealand, or a Cinsault from my beloved Languedoc. From my range i would go for the Cinq Seaux from Domaine d'Emile et Rose (formerly 1000 Roses), which while having plenty of fruit, and lowish tannins has been made with a gentle hand and so is light enough to combine nicely with these lovely flavours.

D. Ploughman's Pie

A novel dish this, an apple pie made with a cheesey pastry. As it has a sweetness with the savoury cheese, I don't know what wines to recommend with this dish. Perhaps a late harvest Grenache Noir from Languedoc, but one that is not very sweet. The wine would work well with the cheese in the pastry, and not be lost against the apples. Worth thinking about, but if you find a Grenache like this, let me know as I have been looking for a god one for ages!

E. Aromatic Mackerel

The oriental spices and herbs make this awkward to match with wine, but the oilyness of the fish and the ginger push me towards a white mine that is aromatic, but with a richness and a reasonably high acidity. I would go for a Picpoul de Pinet from Languedoc, but not any old Picpoul, this dish needs the best, and that it the Chateau Saint Martin de la Garrigue Picpoul de Pinet. Why is it the best? Well, it is complex, it has loads of flavour including apple, pear, lemon, tropical fruit, and loads of herbaciousness, it has a lovely weight in the mouth and perfect balance. It is as good a white wine as you could want to drink!

F. Roast Chicken

With Garlic, lemon, thyme and sage. FOr this I would want to drink something with a bit of power, either a full bodied white, or a red that has lovely soft tannins. The white could be an oaked Chardonnay, or from my range the lovely Ermitage du Pic Saint Loup CuveeSainte Agnes Blanc 2009, made from Rousanne, Grenache Blanc, Clairette and Marsanne fermented and aged in oak.

All of these recipes certainly made my mouth water, and the thought of them has encouraged me to start blogging again. Let's hope the series continues to be as interesting, and that I have got back into blogging!

Bordeaux 2005

Ian Webb — Tue, 02 Nov 2010 12:56:13 GMT

On Saturday we ate with friends who kindly decided that it was time to try the first bottles of some 2005 Claret. The wines tasted were:

Le Grand Chai 2005 AOC Bordeaux - A good "ordinary" claret nice balance, good fruit, mainly blackcurrant and a touch of raisins. Quite simple, but very easy to drink
Chateau de Cazenove 2005 AOC Bordeaux Superieur - A bit more about this wine, good tannins, nice fruit, if a little undefined, touch of spice beginning to come throught, oak beginning to integrate, good length. Overall will improve a little more with say 18-24 months aging. A pleasant drink
Chateau Cissac 2005, AOC Medoc - One of the Cru Bourgeois and it shows. A real step up in class. Tight, ripe fruit - cassis, plum and a touch of dark cherry. Interesting spice beginning to develop. Plenty of lovely tannins that are still ripe, taught and fairly young, giving good structure to the wine. Nice complexity and good balance. Still very young, will be a number of years yet until it reaches peak, and then it will stay at peak for a fair while. I look forward to trying it again.

The conclusion from this limited snapshot was that the Petit Chateaux wines are at or near their best, but that better wines still need plenty of time. CIssac is not one of the trail blazing Cru Bourgeois, but it is consistently reliable and usually a good solid claret. This tasting did not challenge that impression.

As I drink the wines of Languedoc a lot, it was good to try something a bit different.

I don't just drink my own wines!

Ian Webb — Mon, 19 Oct 2009 14:14:35 GMT

Just a quick blog to show that while I am passionate about the wines from the South of France, I do drink other things.

Over the weekend, I decided to open something a bit different to accompany a sausage and lentil casserole. So rather than spending half an hour bent over double in the cupboard looking for something, I randomly picked a bottle from my cellar list. The random bit came from the last digits of the pages in the books we were reading. This took me to a page in the cellar book, and a row entry, after discarding the first selection (a Mosel Auslese) this technique picked a bottle of Aussie Shiraz, it was D'Arrenberg Footbolt Shiraz 1995. This beaut from the Barossa still had impressive fruit, as well as a lovely broad streak of leather, game and some interesting spice on the length. The tannins (never big to begin with) were lovely and soft, though still perfectly formed; the balance was also good, with sufficient acidity (and tannin) for it to work well with the sausages and lentils.

I recomment the technique to thise of you with big cellars, or for those who are wracked with indecision when they try to pick a bottle from the rack. Now I really must find something interesting to eat while we drink that Riesling.

Ian

Nigel Slater's Simple Suppers - Programme 5 - Opposites Attract

Ian Webb — Wed, 14 Oct 2009 13:36:30 GMT

The fifith installment of this series doesn't let up in quality of the dishes presented, they all still look really lovely and very tasty. I particularly like the use of oriental spices, even if that does add to the challenge for the wine matcher!

Sticky Chicken Thighs with Lemon and Honey - I love the idea of the sweet sticky but alos lemony outside and suculent chicken inside, with that touch of olive to add a little more! Wine wise arguments could be made for a big white wine or a red. For example, a good match would be a big, oaked Aussie Chardonnay, particularly if it had a touch of residual sugar. A good red match would be a big and fruit driven in style, like a Nero d'Avola or a Primitivo from Southern Italy, or a Barbera from Piedmont in the North - the powerful sweet fruit flavours would complement the chicken, with the soft tannins going well with the juices sticky outsides. From the Aldeby Wines list I would go for Domaine de Rieussec Jardin Anglais Rouge 2006, a Cabernet Syrah blend that has been made to show off this type of big fruit flavours.

Hot Spiced Fruit with Ice Cream - Lightly cooked plums with spices and ice cream - sounds lovely! Despite the sweetness, this is an idea dish for wine, it would be great with a Pedro Ximinez Sherry if the fruit is particularly sweet, otherwise a fortified Grenache from Banyuls or Maury in Roussillon would be great. I don't list anything quite like that, but the Cuvee Grangeon might be worth a go. One thing that I do know that would be perfect is the late harvest Grenache Noir that Pierre Ravaille mankes for the familly at L'Ermitage du Pic Saint Loup, full of berry fruit, sweet spices and perfectly balanced it would be great, particualrly if the plums and sauce wern't too sweet .... I really need to talk to Pierre!

Grilled Prawns with Yoghurt and Mint - Spicy food and wine are often poor bedfellows, add in the touch of sweetness from the coconut, and it becomes even more difficult. For this dish, I would drink a Pinot Gris from Alsace, one that has plenty of flavour, with fruit and nutty notes as well as the characteristic spice of the better wines, if it had a touch of residual sugar then it would probably work even better. From the Aldeby Wines list, I would offer Cuvee Salabelle 2008 from Domaine Grangeon, an Ugni Blanc that it full of character (I know a lot of you think it is imposible to find one, but try this one and believe!) Aged on the lees of the Viognier, it has body and flavour and is a fascinating drink that has enough about it to work with the prawns and the spices.

Pork Meatballs with Anchovies - This looks like a healthy form of comfort food, which of course demands a "comfort wine" - by that I mean a wine that is full of flavour, packed with fruit and spice and interest, with softening ripe tannins and well balanced acidity. For this dish I would go for a Syrah from the Northern Rhone, say a better St Joseph or Crozes-Hermitage, or alternatively go for a Cornas; Domaine du Tunel is a personal favourite. Better still go for Domaine Grangeon Syrah 2006, or the Mas de Valbrune Pas de Deux 2006 both have fruit, style and complexity in abundance.

Roast Duck with Citrus Salad - The contrast in flavours between the rich duck, five spice powder, citrus and watercress is huge, and this can only make for a complex set of flavours. As the citrus fruits have a touch of sweetness, any acompanying wine needs not to suffer due to the acidic or the sweet parts of the dish. The wine also needs a bit of power, and peferably some elegance, and it should also have some comlexity of flavour of its own. A good riserva Rioja (or similar from Spain), a Cahors or Madiran from SW France, or a Sangiovese based Supertuscan would work well, but I would go for one of two wines from Languedoc: Plan de l'Om Miejour 2007, made with lots of Grenache Noir, and full of lovely complex berry fruit and spicce flavours; or L'Ermitage du Pic Saint Loup Cuvee Sainte Agnes Rouge 2006, which has the power and elegance of the best wines from that AOC with great dark berry and cassis flavours with much spice and much complexity.

Don't miss my wine recommendations for the recipes in previous episodes of Nigel Slater's Current BBC 1 Series, scroll click here and here to find them.

I believe that a decent glass of wine will enhance the culinary experience of anyone eating any of these dishes. I would be interested to hear if anyone has any ideas for different wines to match with these recipes.

Best

Ian

Nigel Slater's Simple Suppers - Programmes 3 and 4

Ian Webb — Fri, 02 Oct 2009 14:06:07 GMT

My time has been very full over the last week, so I have decided to Blog on two episodes of Nigel Slater's programme at once.

What Grows Together Goes Together

Grilled Lamb with feta and Lemon - the combination of lamb, oregano and feta immediately point me towards recommending something classy and classic to drink. It would be really well accompanied by a good Southern Rhone, say a Gigondas, made by a producer focussed on quality. Alternatively something from Priorat in Spain would fit the bill. The Syrah and Grenache would really work with the lamb and the cheese [From the Aldeby Wines list I would recommend the Ermitage du Pic Saint Loup Cuvee Saint Agnes Rouge 2006, or if that is too pricy the Ermitage du Pic Saint Loup Cuvee Classique 2006]
Raspberries with Toasted Oats and Cream - I probably wouldn't try to match any wine with this lovely sounding dish, but if you must try a new wave sweet renache from Languedoc, or a fortified Grenache from Banyuls or Maury
Tomato Sauce for Pasta - The tomato is often a difficult thing to match wine to, it is the combination of acidity and sweetness (when they are truly ripe), the best things to go for are the wines of regions where they eat a lot of cooked tomatoes, like Italy, so a Tuscan Red, or anything made with plenty of Sangiovese in the blend, or possibly a good Montepulciano d'Abruzzo. From our range I would recommend the Mas d'Exindre Rouge 2007, which has plenty of fruit on the nose and palate, but enough ommph to cope with the tomato flavours
An Extraordinary Way with Lettuce - This looks a fantastic early summer dish, I would be looking for something summery to drink with it, like a dry full flavoured rose, or an unoaked cool climate Chardonnay from Victoria in Australia, or a Leyda Sauvignon Blanc from Chile, alternatively a Corsican or Southern French blend including a good dollop of Vermentino (Rolle) would also go very nicely (Try the Chemin des Reves Abracadabra Blanc 2008)
Thai Inspired Noodle Soup - The lovely blend of spices and coconut milk make this a difficult dish to match with wine, At worst the wine could clash badly with the food, or it could disapointingly just disapear. I think that some sweetness in the wine would help, as would some nice minerality and possibly some spicy characteristics, so I would try a white wine made from Chenin Blanc, like a demi-sec Vouvray from the Loire, or a halb-troken Riesling from Germany. With either wine, if on first taste the wine is wrong, it can safely be left to be drunk later, either with or without food.

Made For Each Other

Sausages and Mustard - Real comfort food like this calls for real comfort wine: Chateauneuf-du-pape, or even a decent reasonably old Cornas or St Joseph from the Rhone Valley would be great; as would a good mature St Emilion from Bordeaux. From the New World I would choose a top Malbec from Argentina or a new wave Syrah from Limari in Chile or rom the Gimblet Gravels in New Zealand. From by favourite Languedoc, I would try the Plan de l'Om Paysage 2006, the Mas de Valbrune Pas de Deux 2007,or the Domaine de Rieussec Orangerie 2007.
A Creamy Crunchy Fruit Sundae - Often I don't even try to match sweet dishes with wine, they often don't work, but in this case, I can picture a good sweet Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc blend working well, as long as it doesn't have any botrytis, so try a Montbazilliac. A sweet Pacherenc du Vic Bilh would also go nicely, as would a sweet Chenin Blanc from the Loire, say a Quarts de Chaumes or a Coteaux du Layon.
Green Beans with Ham and Cheese - I think this dish would be enhanced if you had a good red wine to drink with it! I think it cries out for something full of red berry and spice flavours, and that means one thing - Grenache. The best Grenache based wines in the world come from the South of France, including some Chateauneuf-du-pape amd Costieres de Nimes. But in the Languedoc you find in my opinion the very best, like Miejour from Plan de l'Om, or Calice from Mas de la Barben, or from our list 1000 Roses Cuvee Lea 2006 or Domaine Jordy Cuvee Tradition 2007
Smoked Haddock Chowder with Leeks and Sweetcorn - For me this says a white wine with plenty of character! So an oaked Chardonnay, say a Premier Cru (or better!) from the Cote Challonais in Burgundy, or a top Aussie Chardonnay like Bindi. Alternatively go for a wine made with Marsanne and/or Roussanne an important part of the blend, like a wine from the Northern Rhone like Saint Joseph or St Peray, or L'Ermitage du Pic Saint Loup Cuvee Saint Agnes Blanc 2007 - a blend of Roussanne, Clairette, Grenache Blanc and Marsanne - Plan de l'Om Feuillage 2006 or the remarkable and very rare Carignan Blanc from 1000 Roses. The weight, complexity and texture of these wines will work with the smoked fish and milky, herby "soup", lifting the flavours and adding to their complexity, while the oak will add a touch of richness to the whole dish.
Carrot and Coriander Fritters - The cheese suggests a red wine, but I would go for a white and aromatic, with a definite, but not too marked flavour: a Pinot Gris from Alsace, a Gavi from Northern Italy, or a Marsanne from the Northern Rhone would be good choices. From the Aldeby Wines list I would direct peole towards the Praelude from Mas de Valbrune, a 100% Clairette that is dry, and made from old vines producing tiny yields of fruit.
Pork Chops with Apple and Cider - Pork, sage, juniper and dry cider all push me towards a syrah based red, particularly one from a terroir that makes wines with a herbal character. Try a varietal Syrah from Margaret River in Western Australia, or from Piorat or Monsant in Northern Spain, or a good Cornas from the Rhone Valley. The flavours of these wines will partly reflect and partly add to the flavours on the plate, enhancing the whole thing. [Try the Domaine Grangeon Syrah 2006, or the Domaine de Rieussec Gentilhomiere 2006 from the Aldeby Wines range]

I hope that this theme continues to be interesting for you, I am certainly enjoying watching and even cooking some of the recipes. Finally, I'm sorry I have had to cover two episodes in one blog, I hope to be able to cover next week's episode a bit more quickly.

Best

Ian

Nigel Slater's Simple Suppers - Programme 2

Ian Webb — Thu, 24 Sep 2009 15:40:08 GMT

As the third in the series was being broadcast last night, I realised that I needed to blog on the wines I would use to accompany the recipes in programme 2, so here goes:

The Leek Rissotto with Parmesan Chips - You could go for either a red or white wine for this dish, but I am really tempted to go for a good rose, by that I mean one that is dry and full of flavour, and preferably one that has been made with half an eye on drinking it with food. I can think of nothing better than Aldeby Wines' very own Ermitage du Pic Saint Loup Rose. If you were to go for a white wine try an unoaked Chardonnay, preferably from a cool climate like Chablis (From the Aldeby Wines list try the Petit Saint Aunes Blanc 2007). Alternatively if you prefer a red then try Beaujolais, but a village or Cru wine (from our range try Domaine du Grangeon Gamay)
Chicken Salad with Cous Cous and Oranges - Take care the acidity in the orange can destroy and unwary wine! Try a Pinot Noir, but one that is not trying to be Burgundian, I would try a Pinot from Chile, but make sure it is not a cheap one pay say £8 or more. (From our list: The Domaine de Raissac Pinot Noir 2007)
Bubble and Squeak Cakes - These look good, and when eaten with bacon, or a gammon steak would be great accompanied by something big, try a Barossa Shiraz, or a better Chilean Merlot or Carmenere (or better still the Domaine des 1000 Roses Cuvee Lea)
Quick Tomato and Cream Sauce - Assuming you eat this with pasta, I would recommend opening a bottle of Chianti, or another Italian wine made with lots of Sangiovese. The wine needs to have sufficient acidity to cut through the cream and work well with the tomato. (From Aldeby Wines the Bois Moi from Le Chemin des Reves fits the bill in terms of slighty raised acidity)
Fresh Mackrel with Roastred Rhubarb - This is difficult to match, but I would try an aromatic white wine, like Torrontes from Argentina, or Albarino/Alvarinho from Spain/Portugal.(From Aldeby WInes try the 100% Clairette - Cuvee Praelude from Mas de Valbrune)
Rhubarb Tart with Marscapone Cream - this sounds lovely but not over sweet, so a sweet rather than luscious wine would work well, try a Sweet Chenin Blanc from the Loire, or possibly a Vin Santo from Tuscany. (From our list I would instantly go for Domaine Grangeon, Cuvee Grangeon, and if it didn't quite work with this dessert it would be lovely on its own after the meal!)

That's all for now, I will blog on Programme 3's recipes soon

Ian

Is it Worth Keeping the White Wines of Languedoc?

Ian Webb — Thu, 17 Sep 2009 15:05:04 GMT

Aweek or two ago I blogged on the aging ability of red wines from Languedoc, and in the blog I said that I would come back to talk about aging the white wines of the region, So here goes.

In general most white wines from the South of France tend not to be greatly improved by aging. They tend to be rather simple and are much nicer drunk on the fruit while retaining their freshness. The majority of these are Vin de Pays d'Oc. They tend to be made from Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, or increasingly from Viognier or from varieties we associate with the region like Grenache Blanc, Roussanne or Marsanne, and of course the very underrated (when it is good) Picpoul. Increasingly these wines are becoming more and more drinkable, and it is possible to find some lovely wines for early drinking. Areas I like for this type of wine include the Vin de Pays du Duche d'Uzes, Vin de Pays des Coteaux du Salagou, and the Vin de Pays des Cotes du Thongue, and AOC Picpoul de Pinet.

However there are a small number of producers who try to make white wines that will improve with age. They tend to follow the same ideas as the best red wine makers:

They look for the "right" terroir for the variety
They only harvest at low yields
They are very careful in their vinification

Often these producers will use oak barrels of various sizes to ferment or age the wine. The varieites that interest these producers tend to be Grenache Blanc/Gris, Rousanne and Marsanne. There are also one or two age-worthy Chardonnays and the occasional Chenin Blanc that are fascinating. The wines will have a lovely heavyish, oilyish texture, and be full of complex white fruit, floral, melon, and tropical fruit flavours, often with some spice and occasionally a herbal note. They are always well balanced, and often have a great persistence of flavour.

The best wines will usually be made in the areas where the vines get chance to recover from the heat of the summer's day by being cooled by breezes through the night, so for example, the parts of the Coteaux du Languedoc that are nearer the mountains are a good place to look, these include the Terrasses du Larzac, and Pic Saint Loup.

White wine making, with the intention of producing a wine to age, is a relatively new thing in Languedoc, for example Pic Saint Loup has an Appellation for red and Rose wines, but must use the regional AOC Languedoc for white wine, despite it having a lovely white wine terroir - I understand that the local Producers Union has begun the process to apply for an AOC for the whites, but that it may take 10 years for them to persuade the appropriate bodies that they deserve one!

So, dry white wines from the South of France are generally intended for early but pleasurable drinking, though there are a few producers who are trying to make a longer lived wine that will develop with age. Just take care when buying to age, always take advice from a Wine Merchant or Producer you trust.

It seems sensible to point out a few of each type from the Aldeby Wines List:

Early Drinkers - Up to 3 years old

Wines to age

I hope this is of interest. Soon I will give you the low down on a new wave of sweet wines that are slowly becoming more evident in the South of France.

Ian

Nigel Slater's Simple Suppers

Ian Webb — Tue, 15 Sep 2009 12:44:37 GMT

I have just watched the first in the series of Nigel Slater's Simple Suppers thanks to the BBC i-Player. I have always been a fan of Nigel Slater, his philosophy on food has often matched mine. I particularly like the way he uses what he has around, and what takes his eye in the shops. He also seems to be particularly keen to eat according to the season, something that I am keen to do. I really don't think we should be eating strawberries in December, or brussel sprouts in May.

On thing that struck me while watching the programme was the lack of any wine - food matching that goes on in just about all of the cooking programmes on UK television. It got me thinking about what I would match with the five dishes NS prepared:

Hot Chicken Cakes with Herb Mayo - This dish will have plenty of flavour and a good Grenache based red wine will suit it, so a good village wine from the Southern Rhone from say Gigondas, Vacqueyras or Chateauneuf-du-Pape (from the Aldeby Wines list I would pick either Domaine des 1000 Roses Pierre Figee, or Plan de l'Om Miejour.
Nigel's Adaptable Bean Soup - You could go either white or red with this dish. The white would need to have a bit of body, but I think it needs to be unoaked and fairly robust, I would probably open a Chardonnay, or perhaps a Chardonnay blend (from the Aldeby Wines list I would pick the Domaine Grangeon Cuvee Fermiget, a Chardonnay Viognier blend). If I was inclined drink a red wine, it would need to be lightish, but with plenty of fruit flavours - perhaps a Loire Cabernet Franc, or a bigger style of Beaujolais (from the Aldeby Wines list I would try the Domaine Grangeon Gamay, or the Chemin des Reves Bois Moi)
Free Form Trifle and Custard - This really doesn't need a glass of wine, it just looks great! Save the sweet wine to drink as a digestive!
Goats Cheese on Garlic Toast - This is an easy match, though you may be surprised to hear that it demands a white wine. I would go for a Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire (say a Sancerre) or a bry white from Languedoc containing some or all of Roussanne, Marsanne, Grenache Blanc and Clarette. (from the Aldeby Wines list the obvious choice is the Ermitage du Pic Saint Loup Cuvee Sainte Agnes Blanc)
Tidy Friday Pan Fry - What a good looking dish! It need a glass of red, no it demands a glass of red! On a Friday night having worked all week it is only right to have something nice to eat that is simple to prepare - this dish is perfect - but also to drink something really nice. Something with a bit of power, with a fair bit of Syrah or a fair bit of Cabernet Sauvignon would be great, i.e. a good St Joseph (or Cornas), a nice Western Australian Shiraz, a very good Chilean Syrah or a Cru Bourgeois Bordeaux, a good Cab from Klein Constantia, a Super-Tuscan with lots of Cabernet in, or whatever takes your fancy! (from the Aldeby Wines list I would pick the Mas d'Agalis "Yo no Puedo Mas d'Agalis" if I was inclined to Syrah, or the Domaine de Raissac Gustave Fayet if Cabernet was the choice. If I couldn't decide I would go for Domaine de Rieussec Gentilhommiere, which blends the two!)

I really must stop thinking about food. I have only just eaten my lunch and I am hungry again!

Ian

PS Click here, to go to the main Blog page for more on matching wines to the food cooked by Nigel Slater in this series