Aldeby Wine Merchants
October 2009 Entries

Just a quick blog to show that while I am passionate about the wines from the South of France, I do drink other things.

Over the weekend, I decided to open something a bit different to accompany a sausage and lentil casserole. So rather than spending half an hour bent over double in the cupboard looking for something, I randomly picked a bottle from my cellar list. The random bit came from the last digits of the pages in the books we were reading. This took me to a page in the cellar book, and a row entry, after discarding the first selection (a Mosel Auslese) this technique picked a bottle of Aussie Shiraz, it was D'Arrenberg Footbolt Shiraz 1995. This beaut from the Barossa still had impressive fruit, as well as a lovely broad streak of leather, game and some interesting spice on the length. The tannins (never big to begin with) were lovely and soft, though still perfectly formed; the balance was also good, with sufficient acidity (and tannin) for it to work well with the sausages and lentils.

I recomment the technique to thise of you with big cellars, or for those who are wracked with indecision when they try to pick a bottle from the rack. Now I really must find something interesting to eat while we drink that Riesling.

Ian



The fifith installment of this series doesn't let up in quality of the dishes presented, they all still look really lovely and very tasty. I particularly like the use of oriental spices, even if that does add to the challenge for the wine matcher!

Sticky Chicken Thighs with Lemon and Honey - I love the idea of the sweet sticky but alos lemony outside and suculent chicken inside, with that touch of olive to add a little more! Wine wise arguments could be made for a big white wine or a red. For example, a good match would be a big, oaked Aussie Chardonnay, particularly if it had a touch of residual sugar. A good red match would be a big and fruit driven in style, like a Nero d'Avola or a Primitivo from Southern Italy, or a Barbera from Piedmont in the North - the powerful sweet fruit flavours would complement the chicken, with the soft tannins going well with the juices sticky outsides. From the Aldeby Wines list I would go for Domaine de Rieussec Jardin Anglais Rouge 2006, a Cabernet Syrah blend that has been made to show off this type of big fruit flavours.

Hot Spiced Fruit with Ice Cream - Lightly cooked plums with spices and ice cream - sounds lovely! Despite the sweetness, this is an idea dish for wine, it would be great with a Pedro Ximinez Sherry if the fruit is particularly sweet, otherwise a fortified Grenache from Banyuls or Maury in Roussillon would be great. I don't list anything quite like that, but the Cuvee Grangeon might be worth a go. One thing that I do know that would be perfect is the late harvest Grenache Noir that Pierre Ravaille mankes for the familly at L'Ermitage du Pic Saint Loup, full of berry fruit, sweet spices and perfectly balanced it would be great, particualrly if the plums and sauce wern't too sweet .... I really need to talk to Pierre!

Grilled Prawns with Yoghurt and Mint - Spicy food and wine are often poor bedfellows, add in the touch of sweetness from the coconut, and it becomes even more difficult. For this dish, I would drink a Pinot Gris from Alsace, one that has plenty of flavour, with fruit and nutty notes as well as the characteristic spice of the better wines, if it had a touch of residual sugar then it would probably work even better. From the Aldeby Wines list, I would offer Cuvee Salabelle 2008 from Domaine Grangeon, an Ugni Blanc that it full of character (I know a lot of you think it is imposible to find one, but try this one and believe!) Aged on the lees of the Viognier, it has body and flavour and is a fascinating drink that has enough about it to work with the prawns and the spices.

Pork Meatballs with Anchovies - This looks like a healthy form of comfort food, which of course demands a "comfort wine" - by that I mean a wine that is full of flavour, packed with fruit and spice and interest, with softening ripe tannins and well balanced acidity. For this dish I would go for a Syrah from the Northern Rhone, say a better St Joseph or Crozes-Hermitage, or alternatively go for a Cornas; Domaine du Tunel is a personal favourite. Better still go for Domaine Grangeon Syrah 2006, or the Mas de Valbrune Pas de Deux 2006 both have fruit, style and complexity in abundance.

Roast Duck with Citrus Salad - The contrast in flavours between the rich duck, five spice powder, citrus and watercress is huge, and this can only make for a complex set of flavours. As the citrus fruits have a touch of sweetness, any acompanying wine needs not to suffer due to the acidic or the sweet parts of the dish. The wine also needs a bit of power, and peferably some elegance, and it should also have some comlexity of flavour of its own. A good riserva Rioja (or similar from Spain), a Cahors or Madiran from SW France, or a Sangiovese based Supertuscan would work well, but I would go for one of two wines from Languedoc: Plan de l'Om Miejour 2007, made with lots of Grenache Noir, and full of lovely complex berry fruit and spicce flavours; or L'Ermitage du Pic Saint Loup Cuvee Sainte Agnes Rouge 2006, which has the power and elegance of the best wines from that AOC with great dark berry and cassis flavours with much spice and much complexity.

Don't miss my wine recommendations for the recipes in previous episodes of Nigel Slater's Current BBC 1 Series, scroll click here and here to find them.

I believe that a decent glass of wine will enhance the culinary experience of anyone eating any of these dishes. I would be interested to hear if anyone has any ideas for different wines to match with these recipes.

Best

Ian



My time has been very full over the last week, so I have decided to Blog on two episodes of Nigel Slater's programme at once.

What Grows Together Goes Together

  • Grilled Lamb with feta and Lemon - the combination of lamb, oregano and feta immediately point me towards recommending something classy and classic to drink. It would be really well accompanied by a good Southern Rhone, say a Gigondas, made by a producer focussed on quality. Alternatively something from Priorat in Spain would fit the bill. The Syrah and Grenache would really work with the lamb and the cheese [From the Aldeby Wines list I would recommend the Ermitage du Pic Saint Loup Cuvee Saint Agnes Rouge 2006, or if that is too pricy the Ermitage du Pic Saint Loup Cuvee Classique 2006]
  • Raspberries with Toasted Oats and Cream - I probably wouldn't try to match any wine with this lovely sounding dish, but if you must try a new wave sweet renache from Languedoc, or a fortified Grenache from Banyuls or Maury
  • Tomato Sauce for Pasta - The tomato is often a difficult thing to match wine to, it is the combination of acidity and sweetness (when they are truly ripe), the best things to go for are the wines of regions where they eat a lot of cooked tomatoes, like Italy, so a Tuscan Red, or anything made with plenty of Sangiovese in the blend, or possibly a good Montepulciano d'Abruzzo. From our range I would recommend the Mas d'Exindre Rouge 2007, which has plenty of fruit on the nose and palate, but enough ommph to cope with the tomato flavours
  • An Extraordinary Way with Lettuce - This looks a fantastic early summer dish, I would be looking for something summery to drink with it, like a dry full flavoured rose, or an unoaked cool climate Chardonnay from Victoria in Australia, or a Leyda Sauvignon Blanc from Chile, alternatively a Corsican or Southern French blend including a good dollop of Vermentino (Rolle) would also go very nicely (Try the Chemin des Reves Abracadabra Blanc 2008)
  • Thai Inspired Noodle Soup - The lovely blend of spices and coconut milk make this a difficult dish to match with wine, At worst the wine could clash badly with the food, or it could disapointingly just disapear. I think that some sweetness in the wine would help, as would some nice minerality and possibly some spicy characteristics, so I would try a white wine made from Chenin Blanc, like a demi-sec Vouvray from the Loire, or a halb-troken Riesling from Germany. With either wine, if on first taste the wine is wrong, it can safely be left to be drunk later, either with or without food.

Made For Each Other

  • Sausages and Mustard - Real comfort food like this calls for real comfort wine: Chateauneuf-du-pape, or even a decent reasonably old Cornas or St Joseph from the Rhone Valley would be great; as would a good mature St Emilion from Bordeaux. From the New World I would choose a top Malbec from Argentina or a new wave Syrah from Limari in Chile or rom the Gimblet Gravels in New Zealand. From by favourite Languedoc, I would try the Plan de l'Om Paysage 2006, the Mas de Valbrune Pas de Deux 2007,or the Domaine de Rieussec Orangerie 2007.
  • A Creamy Crunchy Fruit Sundae - Often I don't even try to match sweet dishes with wine, they often don't work, but in this case, I can picture a good sweet Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc blend working well, as long as it doesn't have any botrytis, so try a Montbazilliac. A sweet Pacherenc du Vic Bilh would also go nicely, as would a sweet Chenin Blanc from the Loire, say a Quarts de Chaumes or a Coteaux du Layon.
  • Green Beans with Ham and Cheese - I think this dish would be enhanced if you had a good red wine to drink with it! I think it cries out for something full of red berry and spice flavours, and that means one thing - Grenache. The best Grenache based wines in the world come from the South of France, including some Chateauneuf-du-pape amd Costieres de Nimes. But in the Languedoc you find in my opinion the very best, like Miejour from Plan de l'Om, or Calice from Mas de la Barben, or from our list 1000 Roses Cuvee Lea 2006 or Domaine Jordy Cuvee Tradition 2007
  • Smoked Haddock Chowder with Leeks and Sweetcorn - For me this says a white wine with plenty of character! So an oaked Chardonnay, say a Premier Cru (or better!) from the Cote Challonais in Burgundy, or a top Aussie Chardonnay like Bindi. Alternatively go for a wine made with Marsanne and/or Roussanne an important part of the blend, like a wine from the Northern Rhone like Saint Joseph or St Peray, or L'Ermitage du Pic Saint Loup Cuvee Saint Agnes Blanc 2007 - a blend of Roussanne, Clairette, Grenache Blanc and Marsanne - Plan de l'Om Feuillage 2006 or the remarkable and very rare Carignan Blanc from 1000 Roses. The weight, complexity and texture of these wines will work with the smoked fish and milky, herby "soup", lifting the flavours and adding to their complexity, while the oak will add a touch of richness to the whole dish.
  • Carrot and Coriander Fritters - The cheese suggests a red wine, but I would go for a white and aromatic, with a definite, but not too marked flavour: a Pinot Gris from Alsace, a Gavi from Northern Italy, or a Marsanne from the Northern Rhone would be good choices. From the Aldeby Wines list I would direct peole towards the Praelude from Mas de Valbrune, a 100% Clairette that is dry, and made from old vines producing tiny yields of fruit.
  • Pork Chops with Apple and Cider - Pork, sage, juniper and dry cider all push me towards a syrah based red, particularly one from a terroir that makes wines with a herbal character. Try a varietal Syrah from Margaret River in Western Australia, or from Piorat or Monsant in Northern Spain, or a good Cornas from the Rhone Valley. The flavours of these wines will partly reflect and partly add to the flavours on the plate, enhancing the whole thing. [Try the Domaine Grangeon Syrah 2006, or the Domaine de Rieussec Gentilhomiere 2006 from the Aldeby Wines range]

I hope that this theme continues to be interesting for you, I am certainly enjoying watching and even cooking some of the recipes. Finally, I'm sorry I have had to cover two episodes in one blog, I hope to be able to cover next week's episode a bit more quickly.

Best

Ian